Advances In Coastal And Ocean Engineering, Vol 4

This volume consists of five review papers on coastal and ocean engineering. In the first paper, A Review of Coastal Wave Modelling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems , N.E. Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modelling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modelling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. In the second paper, A.C. Radder focuses his discussion on the Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves . He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. C.E. Synolakis presents a review of the Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations . For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems. The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves , by P. Blondeaux and G. Vittori, reviews contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. In Wave Scour Around Structures , B.M. Sumer and J. Fredsoe review the scouring processes around various types of structure.