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Every year in Phuket something amazing happens. Clay incense pots small enough to pick up and carry, known as censers, are believed to hold the combined spirit power of the seven visible (and two invisible stars) that form the 'Big Dipper', also known as 'The Plough', located in the constellation Ursa Major? It is the spirits of these stars that are central to and worshipped at the Vegetarian Festival annually as the 'Nine Emperor Gods'. The festival, even though held in Thailand, was begun by Chinese migrant workers in early 19th century Phuket, and so is a part of Chinese popular religion - a religion where incense is used to communicate between the human and deity realms. During the festival, deities, gods and goddesses of ancient China as well as Hindu deities and Thai nature spirits meet and possess their spirit mediums, ma song, so that they can be pierced with knives and skewers, and increasingly bizarre objects such as umbrellas and samurai swords without feeling pain and without spilling blood. These are just a few of the amazing practices, beliefs and events that this guide first explains the history and practice of, and then tells you exactly where and when to see them for yourself.
This guidebook is based on thirteen years of research between 2010 and 2023 which I began as a PhD student at the University of London (2010 - 2014), continued as a research fellow at the Max Planck Institute for the Study of Religious Diversity (2014 - 2018), and finally completed while working for the National University of Singapore (2018 - 2022). Even though professionally researched, I have chosen to write it as a photo rich guidebook with over 200 pictures for tourists, travelers, bloggers, vloggers and content creators interested in learning more about the festival's Thai and Chinese spirit mediums and the religious culture, so that everyone can get the most out of their visit to Phuket's amazing Vegetarian Festival.
Whichever kind of visitor you are, wouldn't you like the satisfaction of participating in some of the festival's rituals for yourself during your trip? If yes, this guidebook gives you details of how, where and when you can. From Thai Buddhist meditation and chanting and Chinese tea ceremonies for the gods on temple altars; to experiencing firewalking for yourself, or crossing a 'Ping'an Bridge' which is a magical way to receive blessings and to prevent unfriendly spirits from following you, so that good luck will follow. All these events are open to visiting tourists! Or if you just want to enjoy the thrill of walking side-by-side along a temple's parade route, being bombarded with firecrackers along with them just for the experience, and getting to see the amazingly pierced spirit mediums close-up by walking right beside them, then this is the guidebook for you.
The book also includes a must-read practical guide for visitors. Whether you are staying in Phuket City, or relaxing on one of Phuket's white sand beaches, Chapter 5 is packed with essential information for when you are planning your trip. From accommodation choices in the city and along the coast; the best places to eat at any time of the day or night; where to find the best local handicraft markets and most interesting night markets; where to drink; the most memorable places to visit on the island and some to avoid; to practicalities such as the best value vehicle rental, safety tips, and of course, the dates of upcoming festivals.
This guidebook is designed to let you know what to expect and what to prepare for; what to avoid; and to give you the information you need, described in easy-to-understand language, so that you choose exactly what you want to see and experience, without missing out on any of the festival's highlights. So, happy reading and happy holidays ...
