With a radical metamorphosis seemingly every decade, the city of Berlin has lived through Weimar hedonism and fascist dictatorship, been divided by the Iron Curtain and momentously reunited to become Europe's buzzing creative epicentre. The home of Bauhaus and a frenetic melting pot for brutalism and punk, Berlin is the original anti-establishment provocateur to which artists and misfits gravitated. It may no longer be 'poor but sexy', but get past the gruff 'Berliner Schnauze' attitude and you'll discover a progressive art scene, superb international eateries and streets thrumming with history. This is part of a growing series of opinionated guides which offer no-nonsense insider's advice on what to do and see in cities around the world.