Picture the moment, in the run-up to a Christian Dior haute couture show. John Galliano is working silently in the Paris studio with his friend and ally, the master milliner Stephen Jones. The designer is looking at the arc of a silhouette, the drape of a skirt and the tilt of a hat: ‘I often work through a mirror for most of my decisions and I always see Stephen’s reflection,’ says Galliano. ‘He is reading my every nuance. He is studying my face. I don’t need to say anything - he can read my mind’.
From the essay by Suzy Menkes. ‘Stephen Jones & the Accent of Fashion’ is the first monograph on the work of designer Stephen Jones. It is illustrated throughout with incredible photographs from hisillustrious career - among them are Jones’ famous collaborations with Boy George, along with pictures from private collections and museums. The text focuses on varying aspects of his work such as his collaborations with John Galliano and with Thierry Mugler. The book also examines his work with photographers such as Bruce Weber and Nick Knight. Recent collections include: Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, Loewe, Christian Dior Haute Couture, Pret-a-porter, Ski & Baby collections, John Galliano, Comme des Garcons. His recent commissions include: Dita von Teese/Crazy Horse, Bryan Adams, Immodesty Blaize, Take That, ‘Sex and the City 2’, Perrier Jouet, Printemps, Ascot, Disneyland, Kylie Minogue, Kate Moss/Met Ball.
With her moulded felt cloche shadowing an eye and pinned with a tremblant diamond cow-parsley sprig, Nadja Auermann, slinking down the stairs of a crumbling Hotel Particulier in Paris for the John Galliano show, defined the fashion moment. Once again, Stephen Jones, millinery magician, had summoned up the spirit of the day. Jones is a deft conjurer, who can draw whimsy from a hat. Steeped in couture lore and craft, he nevertheless propels his art into the future with his ceaseless invention and thistledown touch. His genius is to enhance the mystery, allure, wit of the wearer - although a Jones hat might be a dramatic statement in itself, it will never overpower.
Hamish Bowles, Style Editor, ‘Vogue’ USA