Going through all twenty-seven letters of the Spanish alphabet, the author takes us from little-known Ayllon to industrial Mieres to monumental Zamora and places in between and beyond, all scattered around the four corners of this land he knows so intimately. We meet colourful characters and surprising situations, humour and irreverence, undisguised criticism and limitless praise, independent opinions and a deep respect for the essence of Spain past and present: for its history and culture and - most of all - for its people.