Beyond Greenock, the River Clyde turns a corner both metaphorically and physically, leaving behind the industrial past of its upper reaches and veering south to greet the islands of the outer firth. Here, the coastal edge overlooks the scenic magnificence of the Argyll Hills and the islands further west. On a human timescale, the land’s grandeur is almost immune to change; the creations of mankind, however, are not. Journeying south from Gourock, after passing the landmark of the Cloch Light, standing sentinel as it has since 1797, we first pass the old village of Inverkip. A few miles on, we discover the Siamese-twin villages of Wemyss Bay and Skelmorlie joined in an embrace, forever binding together the old shires of Renfrew and Ayr. Beyond here, we must travel a sinuous ‘on the edge’ stretch of road, in order to reach Largs.