Ben Shewry’s book is an argument in favour of creative control. The Attica head chef and owner highlights the best parts of hospitality while wrestling with the worst. He goes all in: this is manifesto territory. Rants in all directions are cut with food memories from a childhood in New Zealand and surreal career moments. Life’s highs and lows all feature and make for an entertaining and eye-opening read.

The book feels well timed, if not overdue. There have been headlines about toxic hospitality recently, but these are iceberg tips; accountability and cultural change remain to be seen. Open regarding his own mistakes and lessons learned, Shewry shares steps he has taken in striving to create a better, more inclusive workplace with Attica. He asks men to be accountable, food media to take restaurants to task over poor culture and sustainability practices and calls out the shallow behaviours of reviewers and award systems.

There are three recipes only in the book, for three different approaches to bolognese (family, ‘authentic’ and Attica obsession level). These are contained within an exuberant chapter about lasagne. Even Aotearoa’s freezer favourite the Lasagne Topper gets a shout-out in this deep-dive, although I can’t say I agree with Shewry’s choice of music to accompany this particular delicacy.

In a fascinating chapter on bimbullas (blood cockles), Shewry invites us to embrace the ancient, living cooking knowledge of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples and the extraordinary range of ingredients native to Australia. It’s also a joy to learn how a second-hand David Thompson book led to a Thai-food obsession. From keeping the local bong shop in business during (food) smoking experiments at Attica, to dining at Sydney’s Marque immediately after being hit by a bus, Shewry’s boundless passion, curiosity and drive are evident on every page.

Behind-the-scenes explanations of Attica’s pivot to takeaway and subsequent Summer Camp make interesting reading and highlight how industriousness and community-focus have served Shewry well.

This is essential reading for anyone working in hospitality or food media and, of course, for fellow food obsessives, but also more broadly for creative people trying to carve out a career that has a positive impact or looking to shift workplace culture and lead with empathy.