Five Books if you want to learn to sew your own clothes
Growing up in the 80s and 90s I never properly appreciated the home-sewn clothes my mother and grandmother used to make for me. As far as teenage me was concerned, it wasn't 'fashion' unless it came in a bag with a recognisable logo.
As I've grown older my love for fashion hasn't diminished, but I've become much more conscious about the conditions endured by workers, and I'm far more aware of how damaging fast fashion is for the environment. Combined with an appreciation for textiles that aren't usually available in my budget, and styles that are difficult to find in my size, I've made a concerted effort to improve my rudimentary sewing skills to the point where the majority of my wardrobe is now me-made.
I find sewing to be a strangely meditative practice, and it's a magnificent skill that seems part engineering part magic. There's nothing quite as satisfying as turning a flat piece of fabric into a pair of tailored trousers. Plus everything I wear has pockets now.
If you're interested in learning to sew for yourself, here are five of my favourite books to help you along your journey:
Ahead of the Curve by Jenny Rushmore
From Jenny Rushmore (founder of the Curvy Sewing Collective and the genius behind Cashmerette Patterns), Ahead of the Curve offers clear-cut instructions for basic fit adjustments, as well as five exclusive sewing patterns to roadtest them on. Cashmerette's patterns usually go for $30+ a pop, so those five patterns make this book an absolute steal, even if you never need to use Rushmore's straightforward, beginner-friendly tutorials. One of the things I particularly appreciate about this book is that it doesn't just guide you through making the adjustments, but shows you how to identify why something isn't fitting in the first place (which, honestly, is sometimes half the battle). This is the book for people who've tried sewing in the past, but given it up in disgust because the result never looked right.
You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes By the End of This Book by Juliet Uzor
Juliet Uzor was the youngest ever winner of The Great British Sewing Bee in 2019, and her debut book You Will Be Able to Sew Your Own Clothes By the End of This Book brings her fresh approach to timeless fashion to beginner sewists. It starts with a straightforward guide to what you need to start sewing, how to choose a fabric, take your measurements, and understand a pattern; then goes into greater details about the different techniques you'll need to learn for garment construction. The book includes 15 easy and customisable projects to make from scratch or upcycle from existing items, including simple headbands and belts, all the way through to wrap dresses and dustrer jackets.
No Patterns Needed by Rosie Martin
When I tell people that sewing is a STEM pursuit, this is what I mean. Rosie Martin's book No Patterns Needed gets right into the maths and engineering of making your own clothes. Using simple shapes – squares, triangles, rectangles – and your own body measurements, Martin shows you how to create a wealth of different garments. The projects are really cool and contemporary, with an edgy style that belies the simple geometric shapes that make up their contruction: a draped wrap skirt made from a circle, a cape-sleeve top made from rectangles, a flirty skirt contructed from triangles, etc.
Sew It Yourself with DIY Daisy by Daisy Braid
Similar to No Patterns Needed, Daisy Braid's Sew It Yourself with DIY Daisy is full of pattern-free sewing projects that rely on basic geometry and your own measurements. Perfect for true beginners - especially teen and tweens - the 20 step-by-step projects in this book have no tricky finishes like zips or buttons to master. With everything from basic accessories including scrunchies, scarves, and tote bags; as well as more abitious projects like dresses and jackets, there should be something to appeal to everyone in the book. The instructions are really clear and straightforward, with little hints and tips mentioned throughout.
Sew Step by Step by DK
If you've just inherited a sewing machine and you're not quite sure what to do with it, DK's Sew Step By Step is the book for you. Typical of DK's highly illustrated books, it's the ultimate encyclopedia for learning how to operate a sewing machine, different stitches, and techniques. It starts out with all the must-have items to include in your sewing kit, how to identify different kinds of tools (and what they're used for), the different kinds of fabrics and notions you might encounter, as well as the different stitch that you're likely to use. With fully illustrated and photographic guides to taking your measurements, how read a pattern, and then down to the nitty gritty of actually contructing a garment, Sew Step By Step is the kind of resource I still find myself reaching for every time I tackle a new project.